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Roof tiles have by their own great insulating properties both from water and external temperatures. We suggest using roof tiles above a thermal insulating covering: these two elements together guarantee a complete thermal insulation. For the best result from an aesthetic point of view too, you can use roof plain tiles under them.


Proceed as follows: place the principal wood (or lamellar) beams on the walls – they must be of the right dimensions; then place the smallest ones at a distance of 51 cm (center – center). Place the roof plain tiles of terracotta (Iroko 25*50*2 cm) on the small beams and cover them with cement, creating a 5 cm thick base; cover with a sheet of welded wire mesh. Eventually, place the thermal insulating covering and the roof tiles.


To fix the roof tiles use metal S-hook (processed with a rust-proof product) so that all the pitch weight falls on the first roof tile firmly fixed on the load-bearing wall. The aesthetic result will be the same than an old farmhouse with wood beams and a terracotta roof. You can personalize the whole with a coat of paint for wood nut-brown colour.



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Bricks and floors tiles of terracotta are made of a porous mix so that all the substances coming into contact with them like mortars, sands, salts, liquids, paint products and above all water and oils, may seep through the pores making stains hard to be removed; avoid staining bricks and tiles during the laying and before the treatment.

When you build a wall or floor a room you realise something completely new. This new work, with its own properties, results from putting a certain number of materials together. If the work is not done according to specific rules and criteria, bricks and tiles may loss their technical properties, regularly and carefully tested in our company. For example, the lack of footing or its collapse may damage the floor or the wall of terracotta, letting the salts present in the ground or in the mortar rise and seep into them. That’s why it is necessary a very good salt insulation and the use of salt free mortars. Avoid staining bricks and tiles during other construction works, e.g. during the walls painting, these kind of stains are hard to be removed.

Our products are all frost-proof, tested with a 24h cycle from -20° C to 40° for 100 days. Anyway a sudden temperature fall may cause the freezing and the sudden expansion of the water contained in the pores with a consequent damage for the terracotta, especially in case of outer floors. A wrong pitch may cause water stagnation and a consequent rising salts phenomenon. For outer walls and floors do not use waterproof products: they block up pores and do not allow the natural transpiration with a damage for the terracotta surface.



Brick masonry, if well built does not need any other treatment. Façades made with bricks get better and better as the time goes by. The adoption of the necessary precautions will help the bricks to preserve their mechanic and aesthetic properties all along the time.

- To avoid sharp contrasts in colour shades take the needed quantity of bricks for your brickwork in only one solution, choose them with different shades and use them alternately;

- pallets can be superimposed at maximum by twos (each pallet weights approximately 1500 kg);

- bricks do not must be stained with dust, paint, mortar, etc.: these elements alter bricks colour and are hard to be removed;

- before starting any kind of masonry construction it is essential to create an isolation at its basis as to avoid that rising damp (e.g. from the ground) or rainwater stagnation damage it.

- before starting to build the brickwork it could be useful to make a test to better the brick joint, the thickness, the mortar colour and its hardness, the precision required to the layer so to reach the expected aesthetic result;

- bricks must be wet before the placement to eliminate the dust and to avoid a quick mortar drying and the consequent lost of its set and its mechanic resistance. During the laying, it is important to use a compact mix as to avoid that it pours down staining the bricks; bonds must be carefully filled, avoiding so water seepages. Use a cement mortar or salt free lime: salts may create white efflorescence with a bad aesthetic result. Make sure the mortar is always composed by the same material with the same proportions as to obtain the same brick joint colour.

- protect new masonry construction from rain: water may dilute the fresh mortar and stain the bricks;

- we suggest the use of wall tiles KELA to protect the wall. As the time passes by the lack of isolation may cause the appearance of white efflorescence or smear, that will become grey by the time;

- walls must be cleaned (only if necessary) once dry with a water and hydrochloric acid (30 %) solution, then rinse out with water only and let it dry.

WARNING: do not use waterproof or water repellent materials on bricks or floors; they may damage the terracotta permanently. . Bioedilizia Romano denies any liability and will not accept any complaints after material placing.




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Outer floors are from 3,5 cm thick on. The first step for the realisation of an outer floor is the preparation of the ground. The floor base must be a soil-cement sub-base with a shed of welded wire mesh; it should be 5 cm thick at least with a pitch of 2 % to let the water drain away. It would be better the footing be isolated to avoid raising damp.

It is important the adhesive used does not contain soluble salts as to avoid the appearance of white efflorescence on the floor. To avoid water seepages seal carefully the joints. Do not treat the terracotta with waterproof, water repellent or silicone base products: they do not allow the natural transpiration of the terracotta and may cause damages to the floor. Bioedilizia Romano denies any liability for damages caused by the failure to comply with the indications given.

Terracotta outer floors surfaces do not need any treatment but, if necessary they can cleaned with a water and hydrochloric acid (30 %) solution. Rinse out with water only and let it dry.




For the realisation of dry outer floors suitable for pedestrian access we suggest using floor tile that are 2 cm or more thick. Prepare the ground with a 10 cm (at least) bed of coarse grained sand; compact it and level out the ground with a pitch of 2-3 % , cover the whole with fine sand and lay down the floor tiles with a distance of 3 mm between them. Fill the joints with fine sand and clean everything. Do not treat with any product.

Thicker floor tiles can be used to create a typical English garden. Follow the same instructions as above but lay down the floor tiles with a distance of 5-8 cm between them and fill the joint with rich soil. Then sow with grass or with other seeds and water it regularly.



To realize dry outer floors suitable for vehicle access use floor tiles that are 6 cm or more thick; we suggest using bricks disposed like a fishbone or with another texture allowing anyway a close interconnection between them.

Prepare the ground with a 10 cm (at least) bed of coarse grained sand; compact it and level out the ground with a pitch of 2-3 % , cover the whole with fine sand and lay down the bricks at a distance of less than 1 mm one from another (to compensate the differences between them). Fill the interspaces with fine sand and clean everything. Do not treat with any product.



Floor tiles used for interiors are from 13 mm (extruded terracotta tiles) to 20 mm thick (handmade terracotta tiles). For the laying of interior floors proceed as follows: for ground floors, create a loose stone foundation and cover with a cement footing of at least 5 cm, (it is better to add a sheet of welded wire mesh), cover with a blanket insulation and lay the floor tiles, letting a joint of at least 1 cm to compensate the differences between floor tiles.

The mortar used for fixing the floor tiles and for the tile joints must be soluble salts free (it is better to use cocciopesto or pozzolan cement with 70 % of cocciopesto and 30 % of cement for laying, and 80% of cocciopesto and 20 % of cement for the tile joints). Be careful not to stain floor tiles: cement or mortar stains are hard to be removed.

To fill the joints use a semi-solid mortar and create small cylinders of about 1 cm diameter to put between one tile and another; as an alternative mix sand and cement and add water up to obtain a malleable mix, then fill the tile joints and clean the excess of mix. Clean the floor only when the mortar used to fill the joints is dry but still fragile. Wash the floor with water and if necessary with hydrochloric acid diluted in water (50%), then rinse out with water and let it dry.